A Day in Siena - Tuscany, Italy.

Siena is one of Italy's loveliest cities, and a trip worth making even if you are in Tuscany for just a few days. From Florence it is a relatively easy car, bus or train trip. From the station, the medieval walled city is a short walk away. Of course like most walled cities, cars are not allowed, so you will need to find parking outside the walled city if going by car.
Of course many vendors offer guided day trips as well, mostly combined with wine tours and other cities en route.
As Siena is set high on a hill- you will also get breathtaking Tuscan countryside views along the way.
Siena is said to have been founded by Senius, son of Remus, one of the two legendary founders of Rome and Siena's emblem is the she-wolf who suckled Remus and Romulus - you'll find many statues if this throughout the city. The city sits over three hills with its heart the Piazza del Campo, where the Roman forum used to be, built from 1287 to 1355.

At one time Siena was equal in size to Paris, though after the ravages of the plague the population dropped dramatically and never returned to that size.

The city is divided into 3 distinct parts known as Terzi. Terzo di Citta is the highest and oldest part, Terzo di Camollia to the north and Terzo di San Martino to the south. 


Siena's heart is its Piazza del Campo, known these days worldwide for Carnevale celebrations in February and the bucket list worthy famous Palio run, a horse race which is run around the piazza two times every summer in July and August. James Bond fans will recall seeing the beginning scenes of the movie Quantum of Solace.
You can watch a clip here and get a taste for the spectacle: https://youtu.be/OOcNWH6ctbk


The Piazza del Campo is the universal symbol of the city, and just one of the reasons why UNESCO recognizes Siena as the ideal embodiment of a medieval city. Built in the exact place where the three antique hilltop towns sloped together, before eventually combining to create the community of Siena.


The square, with a circumference of 333 meters, is paved with a fishtail design of red brick divided by 10 lines of white travertine stone creating a shell like appearance with 9 sections pointing directly to Palazzo Pubblico, the civic headquarters. Each section representing one of the ruling 9 governors in the “governo dei nove” and long considered to be one of the most stable and peaceful governments in Italy. Artistically speaking, the sections were to resemble the folds in the Virgin Mary’s cloak, the patron saint of Siena.

Also a feature in the Piazza is the Fonte Gaia, the pride and joy of Siena, the marble fountain and well that has supplied fresh water to the city since 1346.  A little known secret of Siena is the Bottini.

The Bottini is a series of tunnels, more or less 14 miles, built under the streets in the past and used as a way to bring the water to the houses. It was a smart engineering water system that collected water from the countryside and brought it inside the town below street level. The name Bottini comes from the form of the ceiling of the tunnels. Today it is no longer used to bring water to the buildings and it has been restored and opened to the public. I recommend a visit as it is a very unique connection to the past.

One of the entrances is Fonte Gaia, the fountain in the main square, the Piazza del Campo.
Guided visits are by reservation only. You can find all the info at the following link: www.comune.siena.it/La-Citta/Cultura/Strutture-Museali/Bottini.

The Torre del Mangia, with its height of 87 meters, offers one of the most beautiful views of the city. The climb can be a bit tiring: there are over 400 steps, very steep and narrow to climb, but the 360° view that awaits you on the top of the tower is really spectacular and worth the "effort" you go through to reach the top.


The Duomo in Siena, or the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, is one of the most outstanding examples of Romanesque-Gothic church in Italy. Imposing, due to the extensive use of the white marble, the Duomo is fascinating from the outside to the inside. The Cathedral is enriched with works signed by famous artists the likes of Donatello, Nicola Pisano and Michelangelo.
The interior, like the exterior, is decorated with white and dark green (almost black) marble, a choice made to reflect the colours of the city of Siena.

Inside the Piccolomini Library, you can admire truly extraordinary frescoes on the walls and ceiling, where you can see some scenes of the life of Pope Pius II, stunning because of the abundant use of gold.
It is a true gem that you really can’t miss once you're in Siena. Find more about the history of the Library in this article.
The library is INSIDE the DUOMO. Make sure you find it, as many won't find the small door on the left side of the church and MISS this treasure!

The attractions listed above are just a few ideas that can help you to organize your day in Siena, and again, as stated at the beginning of this article, you probably won't be able to see everything unless you have a few days in the city.

For those on limited time, I strongly recommend you to save some time to just stroll through the streets of the city, browse the shops, and enjoys the specialities of the regions which include Chianti, panforte, pecorino cheese and ricciarelli (moist almond biscuits). 

Among the specialties of the local gastronomy, the ribollita definitely stands out- especially in winter. It’s a soup made of vegetables that is usually cooked the day before to make it even more tasty: it is prepared with beans, scallions, carrots, black cabbage and wild vegetables in season. Among the main courses deserving a place of honour, it’s impossible not to mention the pici, big spaghetti made with water and wheat flour seasoned with cheese and pepper, or with garlic and tomato, or with sausage or duck ragu. Pappardelle with wild boar or hare sauce are also some of the typical dishes.

Speaking of second courses, the first dish that comes to mind is definitely the grilled meat, in particular the tender and tasty Chianina beef, raised on pasture- which is a staple of Tuscany. A separate chapter should be dedicated to the Cinta Senese, a particular breed of pig of ancient origin whose meat produces delicious meat and cured meats eaten as an appetizer or snack together with croutons, cheese and local honey.

As for the typical desserts, you’ll be spoiled for choice with cantucci, panforte, cavallucci and ricciarelli, just to name the most popular ones. Also in this case, all the ingredients come from the local area and are based primarily on dried fruit.

Of course, it is Italy and we need wine, and the first one that comes to mind to pair with pasta and meats dishes is the Chianti, the most famous Tuscan red wine. Created by Bettino Ricasoli in the nineteenth century, this wine is produced in the mountains near the city with Canaiolo, Sangiovese, Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes and is aged for at least two years in oak barrels. The Chianti pairs well with all the recipes of the Tuscan cuisine based on meat and tasty local cheeses, especially if seasoned. You could also try the extraordinary Brunello di Montalcino, a precious wine that can be aged up to 50 years. There are also many great white wines like Virgin White of the Valchiana, the white Vernaccia, produced in the San Gimignano area, and the Galestro.

But what wine should we pair with the exquisite typical spiced sweets of Siena? First of all, the Passito del Santo, from the territory of Sinalunga, pairs well with cakes prepared with almond paste, the Cavallucci and Ricciarelli. The Moscadello di Montalcino, a light and quite rare wine, is a good choice to accompany the traditional sweets like panforte.




Enjoy!

This blog is part of the Rose-goes Europe series.

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