Bucket list train trips - The Bernina Express
The Bernina Express is a bucket list trip- no doubt about it. We went early March 2023 and it gave us the last of the winter views with the beginning of spring. I am sure it looks entirely different in the summer and would like to re-do the trip again in another season to see the difference. However, given I don't get to see a lot of snow, the snowy mountain scenes made it all the more spectacular for me.
This panoramic train trip is part of the Rhaetian Railway (RhB) on a 384 km narrow gauge line that is the only Swiss railway to cross the Alps. It has been UNESCO World Heritage listed status since 2008 and is an engineering masterpiece that one has to travel on to appreciate the genius. The Brusio Circular Viaduct is one such engineering feat which alone makes the trip worthwhile in my opinion.
Completed in 1910, the Bernina line links Engadin in Switzerland with Valposchiavo in Italy. This spectacular train journey, through some of the most spectacular scenery I have ever seen, takes approximately 2 ½ hours. Being so short, you can do this easily as a day trip from Milan or Como (which is how most people seem to do it), however I recommend planning and overnight stay at one of your end destinations so you can enjoy the day fully and not feel rushed to get back on the train and do it all over again. We saw many tour groups doing this- I am sure it took away from the joy of the trip.
The route is very windy with some tight hairpin turns along the way. It is also very steep in parts when the train climbs and the train descends at an angle as well. You have to be on the train the appreciate just what gradient the train at times is in and what an engineering feat it is. The maps gives a very simplified view of how many turns and the altitude the train ascends / descends.
You can catch the panoramic train one way or both ways. Some trains even contain a mix of carriages - especially in the off season months. Sitting on different sides of the train in each direction- will give you a different view. If you sit at the back of the train, you can see the trading winding around in front of you- this is quite spectacular given the winding nature of the track, especially around the Brusio Circular Viaduct. Whether to sit right or left is a hard choice as I would suggest both sides offer great views at different sections and it is normally easy to stand up and use windows on the other side of the train if needed for a great shot. If you are in a back carriage , you can even get views out the back of the train. So ensure if booking a reserved seat, you keep this in mind. First class or second is up to your budget- but I recommend booking a reserved seat in the panoramic cars.
You can watch my short YouTube video of the train spiralling down the viaduct here: https://youtu.be/Zo0VEkcfmNA
You can watch my short YouTube video of the train passing Lago Bianco here: https://youtu.be/HZmI5-agi8I
We opted to go up on the local train and returned on the Bernina Express. It was a nice compromise. The Rhaetian Railway’s (RhB) “Bernina Express” line is more expensive per ticket as it is equipped with panoramic windows and allocated seats. It is a lovely experience and the views from the panoramic windows on both sides is amazing. However, if this is not in your budget, you can catch the local train / carriage and get a very similar view (the windows even slide down to allow you to get the perfect picture), and if you have nice people or a spare seat across from you, they might let you lean over them to get that great shot. I recommend trying to catch the panoramic train carriage at least one way to appreciate the large windows that allow you to see the top of the sky high alpine mountains and views from both sides.
The other main difference is with the local line apart from price and view, is that you can get on and off in different villages and look around and catch the next train (your ticket is valid for 24hrs). This may actually be the more attractive option for you if you want the views and time is not limited. Check the timetable for your day and time of travel, but the trains go about every 40 minutes. On the Bernina Express panoramic carriage, you have allocated seats and cannot get on and off at the different villages, even though it does stop at local villages momentarily.
We opted to stay overnight in Tirano (Italy - in the wine growing region of Valtellina) for 2 nights and do the trip to St. Moritz as a day trip from there. Tirano is a great place to base yourself which actually blew our minds for things to see and do for a couple of days. It was not a place we would have normally put on our travel itinerary- but were so glad we did!! (more on that in another blog!).
Like most Italian and Swiss trains- you can BYO food and drink, as many of the food carts or catering carriages were stopped during Covid and not restarted - and we certainly saw people enjoying a champagne view with nibbles along the way. Good to be organised as it is an about a 2- 2 ½ hr trip depending on the number of stops.
Most people catch the train either in Tirano or St. Moritz and do one way, however some of the trains actually go all the way from Tirano to Chur - which is also a fantastic little town to visit and perhaps stay at if your trip entails moving further north or perhaps join the Glacier Express train (which can also be caught from St. Moritz). Check the timetables for the schedules.
The line passes though many spectacular places which in winter are spectacular snowfields and in summer are fantastic hiking locations. this means the line is popular no matter what the season so make sure you book ahead!
Alp Grum is the station with the most impressive panoramas. It was constructed in 1923 and has a restuarant and guest rooms. The scenery includes spectacular view os the whole alpine valley and a unique view of the Palm Galcier and Lake and the Cavaglia Plain and the Italian Bergamasque Alps. Literally, you can pretty much see it all from here!
Ospizio Bernina is the highest railway station in the RhB network. It is also marks the linguistic and cultural divide between Italy and Switzerland. Italian is spoken but also the Engadin Romanish, as well as German. Swiss Francs are used, but euros can also be accepted.
The other thing that is super cool about this train is that in some villages, it literally drives along the local streets- I mean like some people could open their front door and the train would literally be on the doorstep- imagine that!
If you are interested in taking the Bernina Express, I recommend it and suggest you visit these sites:
- https://tickets.rhb.ch/en/pages/bernina-express
- https://www.eurail.com/en/get-inspired/trains-europe/scenic-train-routes/bernina-express
- https://www.seat61.com/trains-and-routes/bernina-express.htm
- https://www.myswitzerland.com/en/experiences/bernina-express/
I highly recommend the site ‘The Man in in Seat 61’ as he tells you everything you need to know about the trips plus more. We have used this site extensively for our trip and he has been very helpful! We even selected seat 61 for this trip intentionally - it was a great seat!!!
