Beautiful Bologna - 5 Must Do things to See and Do.

Bologna, situated in the food and cultural heartland of Italy, Emilia-Romagna, is often missed on tour itineraries in favour of the bigger cities. Hopefully, after reading this- you will add Bologna to your travels! This amazing city has three nicknames that reflect what it is best known for. However, I am going to add another 2 - for good reason!

1: La Dotta (The Learned) - Bologna University, with its motto of “Nourishing Mother of the Studies” was founded in 1088, and is the oldest and most famous university in the western world. Students came from all over the world vying to study here- a privileged entrance that extends even to this day. The medical faculty became famous in the 13th century for its ‘operating theatre‘ - literally a theatre - and taught students the early study of anatomy and surgery. They were one of the first universities to admit women as students and teachers as early as the 18th century. There is still a large local and international student population which adds to the city’s vibrant atmosphere. Famous students included Copernicus and others that shaped Italy and the world. 

Read more about the University here: https://www.unibo.it/en/university/who-we-are/our-history

2: La Grassa (The Fat) - For many people coming to Bologna is a culinary pilgrimage. I always love to talk about the gustation of the region because it demonstrates its heart. The Emilia-Romagna region is where many of Italy’s top and probably most internationally famous products, come from, including balsamic vinegar, parmesan cheese, Parma ham, and mortadella. You will see salumi platters served extensively here, often with the traditional little flatbreads called Tigelle (sometimes called crescentine), which are also sold stuffed with delicious fillings like little sandwiches. These are really Italian street food at its best. Often restaurants and bars will have their logo cooked into them using a customised tigelliera.

The most traditional tigelle is called ‘Cunza’ which is filled with pesto Modenese, chopped pork lard, rosemary, garlic and a generous amount of Parmigiano Reggiano. Try one - you will be glad you did!

See also below “The Markets”.

Salumi platter and tigelle 'sandwiches’. 

Mortadella sandwiches are also a specialty here and are generous and delicious!

Bologna is also home to the shopfront of what is thought to be the oldest balsamic vinegar boutique in the world - the famous Guiseppe Giusti, founded in 1605. The master vinegar makers have demonstrated their craft and their centuries-old family recipe for 17 generations. Their balsamic vinegar has been listed in the international best-seller “101 Things to Buy Before you Die”.

If you don't get a chance on your itinerary to go to the nearby town of Modena to the estate (the Acetaia Giuseppe Giusti), a visit to the boutique is a must. The "Giusti Boutique di Via degli Orefici", located in the historical area of Bologna, attracts gourmet lovers and tourists from all over the world. Just a few steps from the Piazza Maggiore, the boutique re-creates an experiential journey of the estate with centuries-old barrels, objects from the art of vinegar making, and naturally, tastings of Giusti products guided by experts. Of course, you can also buy from the boutique and they ship worldwide. They also have a museum located in Modena.

Of course, Italy is all about pasta and Bologna is the heartland. Signature dishes include tortellini, tagliatelle, lasagne, and balanzoni (green tortellini stuffed with ricotta, spinach, Parmigiano Reggiano, and chopped mortadella or pork loin). Contrary to popular belief and western menus, you won’t find Spaghetti Bolognese on the menu in Bologna (or anywhere else that is decent in Italy for that matter!). In Bologna, the sauce will simply be called “ragù”. Second, the Bolognese don’t eat a lot of spaghetti, they prefer the thicker, egg-based pasta noodle, tagliatelle, because they feel it holds the sauce better. So what you will find here is Tagliatelle al Ragu.

For libations, you are spoiled for choice, and in Emilia-Romagna's wine production is robust and full tasting, with the dominant grape varieties being Malvasia and Lambrusco, Trebbiano, Barbera, Bonarda and Sangiovese. The most notable wine produced within Emilia-Romagna is Lambrusco. Forget memories of the cheap nasty lambruscos you may have tried when younger - the real Lambrusco youwill experience here is a ‘frizzante’ red wine, delicious, dry and refreshing, often served chilled in Summer. This is the real deal I assure you! Make sure you drink the local wines when in the region to appreciate the fullness of the wines to complement the food.

Just as other places in Italy are famous for signature liquors such as Limoncello or Campari, Bologna is famous for Amaro Montenegro, a liqueur obtained by the careful infusion of pure alcohol with herbs. It was first produced in 1885 in Bologna following extensive devoted experiments performed by a famous Italian spirits manufacturer Stanislao Cobianchi.
It is named to honour the second queen of Italy, Princess Helen of Montenegro, on her marriage to Victor Emmanuel III, the Italian sovereign at that time. You will see his name in many cities around Italy.
Amaro Montenegro has become one of the most famous symbols of Italian liqueur tradition and culture. Make sure you try some while you are there! Restaurant owners will often offer you some at the end of the meal. Try it - it is good!

Bologna also has a long history with Italy’s most famous dessert, gelato. Although almost every Italian city lays claim to the best gelato, 3 of Italy’s top-rated gelaterias are in Bologna! If I had to pick one flavour for you to try while here, it would be ricotta and fig, or “ricotta e fichi”- very traditional for this area and not found in other parts of Italy.

3: La Rossa (The Red) - Originally “The Red” nickname referred to the red terracotta tiled roofs of the city, which are best seen from the top of Asinelli Tower or the clock tower.

In later years, ‘red’ also alluded to the city’s leftist political leanings, especially during and after World War II when it was a stronghold of the resistance against Nazism.

Red also describes the colour of the brickwork of the numerous Le Torri- the towers. The medieval towers have become a symbol of Bologna. It is believed they came into being between the 11th and 13th centuries when the Empire and the Church were battling for investiture and the Guelphs and Ghibellines were at war.

The first towers are considered to have performed a defence and surveillance function. However, following the demise of imperial influence in the 12th century, the towers passed into the hands of wealthy families (such as the Asinellis and Garisendis) and the towers then became a symbol of power; the bigger your tower, the more powerful you were perceived to be. It is suggested there were well over 150 towers at one time.

From the 13th century onwards, when the reasons and necessity for their construction gradually fell into oblivion, the towers lost their importance. No more towers were built, and many existing ones were demolished, collapsed, or reassigned to other uses.

Picture showing the numerous towers that existed. You can also see the city walls in this picture. Only remnants of the wall remains today.

Today, only 22 towers survive. The famous two towers (Le due Torri): the Asinelli Tower (97 m) and the Garisenda Tower (48 m) have become symbols of the city.
You can climb the 498 steps to the top of the Asinelli Tower for spectacular views over the city to help burn off the food and gelato consumption!

The Garisenda Tower is Bologna’s own leaning tower, with a lean of 4° (3.22 m at the top), it is a close second to that of Pisa (currently 3.97 m). Standing 47.5 m high today, it was built in around 1100 and was originally 60 m high. The town council wanted to pull it down in 1293 due to its lean and fear of collapse and offered to acquire the property from the Garisendi family. However, they could not find the necessary funds, and the idea of demolishing the tower was abandoned. In 1353, the despot Giovanni Visconti da Oleggio managed to cut it down by 12 m, but it remains to this day, slightly shorter but still leaning!

In recent years, significant work has been undertaken to underpin the tower to prevent collapse and it is under constant monitoring.

Although not as imposing as the Asinelli Tower, the Torre dell’Orologio is one of the most prominent and popular. Located next to the statue of Nero, and in a prime location in the main square, the Piazza Maggiore, this tower is attached to the old Palace (Palazzo d’Accursio), with its stunning interiors home to the Municipal art collections. You can climb the clock tower for amazing 360 degree views, including the famous 2 towers in the distance.

Note that climbing this, or the Asinelli Tower is not for the faint-hearted - there are no lifts.

4: de Portici (the arcades):  Another thing unique to Bologna is the porticoes and arcades (or Portici di Bologna) that extend from almost every building in this city. These attractive arches were originally built from wood in the late Middle Ages to create extra living space upstairs and now have the advantage of offering protection from the rain and sun as you walk around the city. In 1363, it was decreed that wooden pillars be replaced by stone or brick due to the risk of fire and also deterioration, and collapse. This allowed them to be far more decorative and for this we are grateful. Some wooden porticoes from the 13th century still survive today, however, they seem so bland in comparison to the stone ones that are so ornately decorated. There are 62km of porticoes in total.

My followers will know that I absolutely have a passion for UNESCO World Heritage Listed sites and my ultimate bucket list is to visit them all, so I was excited to learn Bologna is home to the longest portico in the world and this and other porticoes are UNESCO World Heritage listed as of just recently, 2021. The award relates to 12 of the most symbolic sections of the porticoes. For those who are interested, you can read more about the UNESCO World Heritage listed porticoes at: https://www.bolognawelcome.com/en/information/unesco-porticoes-of-bologna-en

Or you can see the porticoes and arcades in this lovely video (2:28 min): https://youtu.be/iIMy5wsrj8I

The Libreria Nanni open-air bookshop under the porticoes.

If walking up all of those steps in the towers hasn’t worn you out, you can walk the most famous and well-known of these porticoes, the Portico of San Luca which is 3.8 km under 666 portico arches up to the Basilica San Luca on top of the Colle della Guardia hill. You’ll find many Bolognesi using the portico, a steady uphill walk, as a training ground, walking briskly or running, especially on weekends; others still use it the same way as pilgrims in the past did, reciting the Mysteries of the Rosary, stopping at each of the 15 chapels along the portico. You should note it is challenging with a steep incline in places and steps, but as you climb the hill, the view is amazing, as is the church. Some say the number of arches and the way the path winds up the hill like a snake represents the Madonna overcoming the devil. 666 is the devil’s number, and the long, winding portico recalls the serpent, i.e. the devil, and terminating at the foot of the Sanctuary refers to the iconography of the devil defeated and crushed under the foot of the Madonna.

The Portico San Luca was commenced in 1674 to protect the pilgrims on their journey. The Basilica began as a Sanctuary in the 12th century but was later rebuilt in 1723. Be sure to check the opening times of the Basilica - you don't want all of that walking to be in vain!

This picture gives you an idea of just how spectacular (and long and steep) the Portico San Luca really is!

The full name of the Basilica is the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca. In winter, snow falls on the Basilica giving it a stunning look that is worth every step to the top. Breathtaking.

The interior

Whether you go for religion, fitness, or just for the bucket list experience, it’s a pilgrimage worth the view. Once you arrive at Basilica San Luca, if you still have energy left, you can climb up to the attic for a panoramic view of Bologna. The panoramic terrace opened in 2017 at a height of 42 m (300 m asl), which enables visitors to have a view stretching out as far as Casalecchio di Reno.

If walking that distance is not possible for you, you can take a bus, drive or ride the San Luca Express train up to the Basilica. You can then choose to do the relatively easy downhill walk (approx 30 mins) to the bottom of the hill - all under the porticoes or return in the same way you arrived. The Basilica is accessible by elevator to all types of disabilities. Only the dome and crypt are not accessible.

Other ‘Must Sees”

The other must-sees on my list I feel represent the true core and heart of Bologna.

The Basilica of Santo Stefano,  is the complex known as the ‘seven churches’ (Sette Chiese, however now only 4 are left) - and is home to one of the oldest remaining intact churches in the world.

It is hard to know the true reason for the building of 7 churches over previous Pagan sites, but it is believed that the then Bishop, San Petronio’s desire was to create a complex of seven churches that reproduced the places of Christ’s Passion. Of the remaining 4 churches, the Church of Santo Sepolco dates back to the 5th century and was built above an ancient temple of the goddess Isis. It was designed to reproduce faithfully the place where Christ’s remains were deposited after his death. The room is octagonal and it is entirely dominated by the large pulpit in its center. The austere aspect of the pulpit and the position of the cross is considered to be very holy for its religious visitors.

According to an ancient tradition, the pregnant women of Bologna used to walk 33 times (Christ’s age) around the Sepulcher and, at the end of the 33rd turn, the women went to the nearby Martyrium church to pray before the fresco of Madonna Incinta. Also for a long time, the relics of San Petronio were kept there. In 2000, the remains of the patron saint were moved to the Basilica of San Petronius in the Piazza Maggiore.

You can read more about this fascination and important religious historical site here: https://www.bologna-guide.com/seven-churches-basilica-santo-stefano/

Also of note is the Basilica San Francesco - a church with a troubled history, commenced in 1236, it took 30 years to complete. It is the first example of French gothic style in Italy (like the Notre-Dame de Paris). The church has suffered numerous catastrophes (natural and man-made) over its many years and was only restored back to its former glory in 1948. Markets run regularly from the church grounds including the famous Christmas markets.

However, the absolute heart of the Bologna, and once the main market, is the Piazza Maggiore dates back to the 1200s, and although the markets are no longer in the square, it remains a central meeting point for the locals to this day, especially on a Saturday. The Piazza Maggiore is home to the several key sites including the Torre dell’Orologio, Basilica of San Petronius, Palazzo dei Notai, Palazzo d’ Accursio, the cheeky Fountain of Nero and the Archiginnasio - so you can tick these off all in one spot!

The Fountain of Nero was completed in 1566. It is said that Nero’s trident inspired the Maserati brothers for the emblem of their cars. Their first workshop can be found Via de’Pepoli, 11 and there is a street in their honour, Via Maserati.

The Basilica of San Petronius is the odd-looking church in the Piazza Maggiore. It has an incredible story as to why it looks unfinished and is called the “megalomaniac dream”. The first stone was laid in 1390, and commissioned in honor of the patron saint, San Petronio. In the original project, it was supposed to be the largest church ever built, several times bigger than the church you see today.

However, the building had its share of problems and the project was never completed, largely because Pope Pius IV realised it would be bigger than the Vatican churches, so he restricted the construction by building the Archiginnasio (the narrow building to the left side) which interfered with the church project. Also, the façade was supposed to be all marble and very ornate, however, you can see that not only was the marble not completed, but the facade is also uneven and the rest was finished with ordinary red bricks. It is believed the funds dried up. Despite this, they went on to complete a church, and today the Basilica of San Petronio while not the prettiest, is the seventh-largest church in the world.

Additionally, the reason why the Italian Army has stood guard at the doors since 2002 is also an interesting story- too much to write here, but you can read about it here if interested:

https://www.bologna-guide.com/san-petronio-church/

5: I Mercati (the markets) - Finally, when visiting Bologna, allow a lot of time to walk through some of the markets. Of course, they have the typical ‘flea markets’ selling clothes and vintage bric-a-brac which are very popular. You can find out more about the flea markets here: https://www.tastebologna.net/blog/flea-markets-bologna

However, I think it is the food markets that make Bologna special. I have them listed in order here in order from oldest to newest.

The Quadrilateral covers an entire city block (from Via Farini, to Via Castiglione, to Via Rizzoli, to Piazza Maggiore) where in medieval times all the butchers, fisherman, bakeries and produce stands were located. Today, you’ll find most of the action along Via Pescherie Vecchie amid the same historic architecture which makes it feel like a step back in time. Arrive early before the crowds, grab a cornetto at Caffè del Mercato, and take a stroll through the market stalls and shops.

Right inside the Quadrilatero is Bologna’s very first indoor food market – Mercato de Mezzo. It includes three floors packed with food stalls, including a brewery! Take a walk-through and look at everything before deciding on what to eat. I suggest sharing a few plates to try a variety of different traditional dishes.

Just 9km out of Bologna, there is also the new concept store of FICO Eataly World, which has over 100,000 sqm filled with food from every region in Italy — sounds a bit like heaven! Those familiar with Eaterly will know they focus on great Italian produce and allow the makers and artisans to demonstrate and sell their products. They also have restaurants on-site showcasing the food and wine.
You can read more about this ‘food theme park’ here: https://www.fico.it/en

If all that is not enough to entice you to Bologna, then you should also know it was also declared a UNESCO "City of Music" in 2006. The main thoroughfare to the Piazza Maggiore,  Via d'Azeglio has dedicated this year to the song, 'Imagine' by John Lennon. The choice fell on the famous song of the 'Beatles' member who was tragically killed in 1980, for the strength of his timeless words and for the important references to Peace. The words People, Religion, World, and Dreamer are colourful and reproduced in capital letters along the mall, aiming to arouse a sense of responsibility in those who will read and sing them. 

Bologna is definitely worth fitting into your itinerary for at least a few days. At least one of those days can be spent visiting Modena and Parma to taste the best balsamic and the best cheeses of your life. You will realise that you have been duped all of these years with supermarket rubbish. Both are easily reached by train and bus, or if you plan to hire a car, the trip is even more accessible and you can plan to stop off at the numerous wineries and balsamic estates on the way as well - Bonus!

This blog is part of the Rose-goes Europe series.