Lucca - Tuscany, Italy
Lucca lies in the Serchio Valley surrounded by the Apennine Mountains and Apuan Alps. It is estimated it was first established by the Romans in 180 BC as it became a popular thoroughfare city as it is positioned at the junction of the roads that led to Parma, Florence, Rome, Pisa and Luni. These days, it is a busy road and rail centre, and the city is the centre of a rich agricultural region that exports high-quality olive oil. Silk has been manufactured here since about the end of the 11th century. Other industries include flour milling and the production of tobacco, paper, textiles, jute goods, and wine.
Despite numerous conflicts with its powerful neighbours and ambitious noble houses, Lucca largely maintained its independence until it fell to the French in 1799. From 1805 until 1814, Lucca was ruled as a principality by Élisa Baciocchi, a sister of Napoleon. Assigned by the Congress of Vienna (1815) to the Spanish infanta MarÃa Luisa, widow of the former king Louis of Etruria, it passed in 1824 to her son Charles Louis, who ceded it to Tuscany in 1847. It was only re-united to the kingdom of Italy in 1860.
Because of this, the buildings in Lucca, both in the old walled and new city, have a distinctively more European French look that other Italian cities.
Lucca is very easy to reach both by car as well as train and bus from both Pisa and Florence, making it perfect for a day trip or anyone relying solely on public transportation.
Symbolic of the city, its imposing 16th-century Roman walls are one of the few examples of city walls that have remained completely intact in Italy. To this day, the 4.8km wall provides a convenient vantage point to circumnavigate the old part of the city, as well as a picturesque promenade for locals and visitors alike. The wall, has in essence become a park that surrounds the city and you can enjoy a bike ride around the entire perimeter, or a stroll as you enjoy a gelato or simply sit and do your sightseeing from one of the many benches that line the walkway.
The Piazza del Mercato is also known as the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro. There used to be a Roman amphitheatre here, but most of the stones have been used to build the churches and palaces in Lucca. You can still identify the arena-like shape of the square. Until the middle of the nineteenth century, the square was full of slums; now you will find shops and restaurants. The original passages in the four cardinal directions have been preserved, so you can still see the gates the gladiators would have entered through to the battlefield.
Lucca is also the birthplace of the famous composer Giacomo Puccini, famous for operas such as La Boheme, Madame Butterfly, Turandot and many other famous works. The fifteenth-century house is now a museum dedicated to him. In the museum you will find portraits of the composer and also things like the piano on which Puccini composed his last opera and the costume designs of his many operas. There is also a statue of Puccini outside the house. You can find out more about the museum here: http://www.puccinimuseum.org/en/
Tip for Puccini lovers: Do you like to listen to Puccini's operas? During high season there are daily performances in the San Giovanni Church (info and bookings).
The church of San Michele in Foro was built on the main square of Lucca, where the Roman Forum used to be. The church has been here since 1070 and especially the very ornate facade attracts many tourists every year. It too over two hundred years to complete it, during which time they ran out of money to complete it. The consequence? The church is significantly smaller than the gigantic façade. The Archangel Michael stands outside the church and watches over this holy place. Inside, however, there are also a number of must-see sights, so make sure you pay it a visit.
Just outside Lucca, you will find the famous Aqueduct of Nottolini built in neoclassical style. The imposing structure was made in the nineteenth century and originally brought water from the mountains on the south side of the city to Lucca. The aqueduct consists of a stone canal about three kms long and consists of more than four hundred arches. The aqueduct is currently interrupted by the autostrada A11 from Florence to Pisa which passes through it. The aqueduct is named after its architect Lorenzo Nottolini.
Lucca is a beautiful city with many more things to see and do than listed here. It is also less busy than the bigger cities - so a good place to take some down time if you have a busy schedule of travel.
The food and drink of the area is typically Tuscan, and I can highly recommend the La Colonna, Caffetteria di Panteleoni Roi in the Piazza S. Maria Bianca for rustic authentic Tuscan food at great prices.
Finally, if you are in any doubt as to how popular Lucca is - simply look at who attended the Lucca Summer Festival in 2017 - many artists including the Rolling Stones, Robbie Williams, Green day and more (see the full list here: https://www.comune.lucca.it/summer_festival).
Despite numerous conflicts with its powerful neighbours and ambitious noble houses, Lucca largely maintained its independence until it fell to the French in 1799. From 1805 until 1814, Lucca was ruled as a principality by Élisa Baciocchi, a sister of Napoleon. Assigned by the Congress of Vienna (1815) to the Spanish infanta MarÃa Luisa, widow of the former king Louis of Etruria, it passed in 1824 to her son Charles Louis, who ceded it to Tuscany in 1847. It was only re-united to the kingdom of Italy in 1860.
Because of this, the buildings in Lucca, both in the old walled and new city, have a distinctively more European French look that other Italian cities.
Lucca is very easy to reach both by car as well as train and bus from both Pisa and Florence, making it perfect for a day trip or anyone relying solely on public transportation.
Symbolic of the city, its imposing 16th-century Roman walls are one of the few examples of city walls that have remained completely intact in Italy. To this day, the 4.8km wall provides a convenient vantage point to circumnavigate the old part of the city, as well as a picturesque promenade for locals and visitors alike. The wall, has in essence become a park that surrounds the city and you can enjoy a bike ride around the entire perimeter, or a stroll as you enjoy a gelato or simply sit and do your sightseeing from one of the many benches that line the walkway.
The Piazza del Mercato is also known as the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro. There used to be a Roman amphitheatre here, but most of the stones have been used to build the churches and palaces in Lucca. You can still identify the arena-like shape of the square. Until the middle of the nineteenth century, the square was full of slums; now you will find shops and restaurants. The original passages in the four cardinal directions have been preserved, so you can still see the gates the gladiators would have entered through to the battlefield.
Lucca is also the birthplace of the famous composer Giacomo Puccini, famous for operas such as La Boheme, Madame Butterfly, Turandot and many other famous works. The fifteenth-century house is now a museum dedicated to him. In the museum you will find portraits of the composer and also things like the piano on which Puccini composed his last opera and the costume designs of his many operas. There is also a statue of Puccini outside the house. You can find out more about the museum here: http://www.puccinimuseum.org/en/
Tip for Puccini lovers: Do you like to listen to Puccini's operas? During high season there are daily performances in the San Giovanni Church (info and bookings).
The church of San Michele in Foro was built on the main square of Lucca, where the Roman Forum used to be. The church has been here since 1070 and especially the very ornate facade attracts many tourists every year. It too over two hundred years to complete it, during which time they ran out of money to complete it. The consequence? The church is significantly smaller than the gigantic façade. The Archangel Michael stands outside the church and watches over this holy place. Inside, however, there are also a number of must-see sights, so make sure you pay it a visit.
Just outside Lucca, you will find the famous Aqueduct of Nottolini built in neoclassical style. The imposing structure was made in the nineteenth century and originally brought water from the mountains on the south side of the city to Lucca. The aqueduct consists of a stone canal about three kms long and consists of more than four hundred arches. The aqueduct is currently interrupted by the autostrada A11 from Florence to Pisa which passes through it. The aqueduct is named after its architect Lorenzo Nottolini.
Lucca is a beautiful city with many more things to see and do than listed here. It is also less busy than the bigger cities - so a good place to take some down time if you have a busy schedule of travel.
The food and drink of the area is typically Tuscan, and I can highly recommend the La Colonna, Caffetteria di Panteleoni Roi in the Piazza S. Maria Bianca for rustic authentic Tuscan food at great prices.
This year’s Summer Festival 2023 is still in planning and details (including a Robbie Williams return and Kiss!) can be found here: https://www.luccasummerfestival.it/
This blog is part of the Rose-goes Europe series.
