Modena, located in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, is a beautiful city with a rich history and culture. It is a foodie heaven, home to no less than 22 Michelin star restaurants (for a place this size - it is impressive!) as well as home to Italy’s famous balsamic vinegar.
Located about 30 mins by train NW of Bologna, or about 1.5 hrs from Florence (times vary depending on transport type) - Modena is an easy day trip. Most people pair the trip with a visit to nearby Parma. You can read about what to do in perfect Parma here.
You can read about beautiful Bologna here.
No trip to Modena is complete without a visit to a balsamic factory or Acetaia tour. There are a number of famous brands located here- all with their own ‘secret recipe’ that has been handed down for generations. The unique aging process (which can take decades!) turns grape juice into a sweet syrupy liquid that is perfect to match with many of Italy’s favourite dishes, particularly the Prosciutto and Parmigiano Reggiano also made in the area. Some of the best balsamics sell for hundreds of euros- thats how precious it is.Not all balsamic cost hundreds - there are in fact 3 grades of balsamic vinegar:
- Condimento - lower grade and mostly only ever used in dressings, and general cooking. Most commonly found on the export market for those of us who don't know any better!
- IGP Aceto Balsamico di Modena - the most common type used in Italy. IGP stands for protected geographical indication - which means the balsamic has been produced and bottled in Modena.
- DOP Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale - the best quality balsamic and has a protected designation of Origin (DOP) regulated by the European Union. These vinegars are aged for a minimum of 12 years and have no other ingredients other than grape must.The colour of the label indicates how long it has been aged - red for 12 years, silver for 18 years and gold for 25 years. The resulting vinegar is a thick, smooth syrup that takes on the characters of the barrel it was aged in (e.g. oak, cherry or other woods).
Once you try an aged balsamic - you truly will not want to have anything but the best on hand. It is so rich - you will only need a few precious drops to bring your food to the next level.
While there are many makers - the Giusti family is the oldest and has been making balsamic since 1605. 17 generations later- the family still runs the business and is proud of the contribution they have made to putting Modena on the map. The Giusti family own over 600 barrels collected from the 1700s and 1800s - one of the secrets to their unique taste and success.
You can visit the Acetaia Giusti and see where the magic happens. Most tour companies run tours which I recommend you book in advance as they are very popular. They also have a Balsamic Museum showcasing over 400 years of history. A visit here is a must when in Modena. Bookings are required and you can book online at museo@giusti.it
May the 16th is Giusti Day in honour of the family.
If you cant make it to the family Acetaia - they also have boutiques in Modena, Milan and Bologna- where staff will also be happy to go through the different types of balsamic with you.
Apart from balsamic tasting - here are some more great things to do in Modena:
Visit the Modena Duomo
This stunning cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage site (listed in 1997) and boasts beautiful architecture and a rich history. The first stone was laid in 1099 and works continued for the next few hundred years. Next to the apse of the Cathedral, is the Ghirlandina Tower, the symbol of Modena. It was affectionately named by the people of Modena for the marble balustrades crowning its spire ‘like graceful garlands’. You can climb the tower for panoramic views of the city. And no- you are not imagining it- the tower DOES lean. The tower is tilted nearly 1.4 ° east-Southeast, around about 1/3 the lean of Pisa's famous tower! You can read more about the building and it’s history
here or if you can’t make it - a fabulous
virtual tour is also available here.
Visit a motoring museum
Modena is the birthplace of Enzo Ferrari, and automobile manufacturing and legends of speed are an integral part of local culture. For this reason, Modena is the heart of the Motor Valley and is known as the car capital of the world. In addition to the Ferrari Museums (one is located in Modena and another in nearby Maranello), you can also visit the private collections and shrines to automobile legends such as the Maserati plant and showroom, the Umberto Panini Collection of vintage cars, the Stanguellini Museum, the Righini Collection, the Pagani factory and its museum, and the Autodromo di Modena. A few kilometers from Modena you will find the museums and factories of Lamborghini and Ducati. Even if you are not a fan of fast cars, you will find the story about these mechanical geniuses and beautiful cars very interesting.
This beautiful palace was once home to the Este family, who ruled Modena for centuries. Considered one of the best examples of Baroque palaces in Europe, it is imposing and extremely rich in art and history. For sheer dimension and pomp it can be considered among of the greatest residences in Europe. It houses several museums and art collections. Today the palace is the headquarters of the Military Academy and can be visited only with a guided tour on Saturdays and Sundays with reservations.
Explore the Mercato Albinelli
This lively market is a great place to shop for local produce, cheese, and other foods. It's a great place to soak up the local culture and atmosphere, and of course sample the foods of the region.
If you have some extra time and are a fan of Opera, visit the Casa Museo Luciano Pavarotti. This museum is dedicated to the life and work of one of Modena's most famous sons, opera singer Luciano Pavarotti. The museum features memorabilia and artifacts from his life and career.
In terms of a bucket list food destination and if you have limited time here then you will want to save that time for
Osteria Francescana under the direction of Chef Massimo Bottura for a serious, and I mean serious, food experience. Book ahead, just 12 tables are between you and food heaven! It has been named as one of the top restaurants in the world! As a bonus - you will be eating sustainably because in 2016, Chef Bottura founded the not-for-profit association ‘Food for Soul’, which stands against food waste in the interest of social inclusion and individual well-being. I like to call it “delicious with a conscience”.
Overall, Modena is a wonderful destination for anyone interested in history, culture, food, and art. There's something for everyone in this beautiful city. Go with an empty stomach and ensure you enjoy the joys that this region has to offer.
This blog is part of the Rosegoes Europe series.