The 10 best things to see in Munich.
We recently used Munich as a springboard to Northern Italy. We were pleasantly surprised at this great city.
4. Visit Marienplatz
Our Dear Lady (Frauenkirche) is perhaps the most famous church, with its two very distinctive towers (Stasi and Blasi). Dating back to the 15th century, it took almost 20 years to build and is based on the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. It is significant because there is a rule in Munich that no building is to surpass the Frauenkirche in height. The southern tower is almost 100 m tall. Although heavily damaged during the war, it has been rebuilt with fewer embellishments than the original, however, these are being reinstated over time.
One of the most distinctive features of this church is the ‘Devil's Footprint’ (Teufelstritt) located at the entrance to the main church. Legend has it the Devil made a pact with the architect to build the church without windows so no one would want to attend. When he went to see the completed church and saw that it had no windows, he apparently jumped for joy and on landing created a large footprint. However, he then noticed that there were indeed windows behind the massive pillars. The devil was so infuriated that he transformed himself into a storm to try and blow the church away. He failed of course, but eerie winds are still felt in the streets around the Frauenkirche today. It is something you need to experience for yourself, but I assure you, it is eerie.
Like other churches, you can go to the top of the church for amazing views via the south tower, and the good news is, they have a lift! For a small fee, once up in the viewing tower, you will see several different views with panorama descriptions so you know what you are looking at.
Many of the other significant churches are located nearby making it easy to see others, and all are worth a visit. Many have towers for amazing views, however, it is worth noting that only the Frauenkirche has a lift.
Saint Michaels Church (Michaelskirche), is located in the pedestrian zone between Karlsplatz-Stachus and Marienplatz. Modeled on “il Gesu” in Rome, its cantilever barrel-vaulted ceiling is, at more than 20m, the world’s second-largest after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. It is the largest Renaissance church north of the Alps.
The distinctive white and pink exterior is adorned with statues of the Wittelsbach dynasty forming a family tree. It is also the burial place of Ludwig II, the Fairytale King, and other royalty of Bavaria. The interior is stunning so well worth a look.
If you want a fantastic view of Marienplatz and the Rathaus- then make the tricky trip up the tower of the oldest church, St.Peter’s Church. Affectionately called ‘Alter Peter’ - it is the oldest recorded parish in Munich, originally built in 1158, but rebuilt and dedicated in 1368. The church is a bit of a ‘patchwork quilt’ having being built on in different styles over the years- including romanesque, gothic, renaissance and baroque! The interior is well worth the visit even if you can't make the tower climb.
If you have time, and are not over churches yet, and are going to the Residenz, you can also fit in a quick visit to the Theatine Church of St. Cajetan and Adelaide (Theatinerkirche St. Kajetan und Adelheid) with its striking mustard yellow Rococo façade, twin towers and a large dome. During WWII, the church was extensively bombed, and the west wing of the monastery was destroyed. The restoration began in 1946 and some works continue to this day. A number of members of the Bavarian Royal family have their tombs there. Right next door is the Field Marshall's Hall (Feldherrnhalle). If this looks familiar, it is because it is modelled on the famous "Loggia dei Lanzi" in Florence, (which you may have also seen!). The Hall houses the bronze statues of Count Tilly and Prince Wrede cast from melted-down cannons, so a quick detour will allow you to see this amazing tourist site as well.
What is really interesting is that while gondolas are usually associated with Venice, you can also enjoy a gondola ride at the Palace in the warmer months once the lake has thawed.
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Personally, I found the Hofbräuhaus too touristy, and there are plenty of other historic beer halls to visit in this city- but hey- why not visit them all and decide for yourself!
The view from the tower of St.Peters.
Not only was it much cheaper to fly there than Rome from Australia (at that time), the opportunity to add into our trip the famous Brenner Pass train was an added bonus to get us into Northern Italy. This scenic train trip through the Austrian Alps and Italian vineyards is well worth it, and it is a convenient and comfortable way to get from Munich's main central station (Hauptbahnhof) to your choice of Verona or Venice, or several other destinations. Of course, Hauptbahnhof is also the gateway to so many other European destinations - so Munich is a great location to base yourself.
Read more about this scenic train trip here courtesy of the Man in Seat 61.
Munich is made up of the 'Old Town' (Altstad), and the modern post-war city. Many of the attractions are in the Old Town which means you can cover a lot of ground in one day.
Of course, it does depend on when and why you are going to Munich. If you are attending Oktoberfest, you need to allow a LOT more than 3 days! Approx. 6 million tourists per year like to time their visit to Munich in September and October - when the city bursts at the seams with locals and tourists wanting to participate in the 18 days of fun and frivolity. Add extra time if you are planning to go then.
Thanks to the 1972 Summer Olympic Games, Munich has extensive pedestrian areas, making it perfect to explore on foot. Public transport will get you to other sights easily. If walking is not for you, or to save time for more sightseeing, then the extensive rail system (the S-Bahn and U-Bahn) buses and trams serve as efficient modes of transport. Between them, you can get anywhere you need to go.
I usually like walking to see the sites, but to be honest, it is worth it to catch the U-Bahn to see the incredible collaboration between local government, architects and local and international artists. For the small cost of a ticket, you can access a vast underground public art gallery. To help you kick-start your exploration of the city's buried architectural wonders, here are eight of the most popular stations that will literally make you stop in your tracks!
So what else can I do in a few days in Munich?
Limiting it to 10 was tough, but here are my picks. Ok... I admit there are actually more than 10 here, but given their proximity, you will be able to see most of them in quick succession as you will simply walk between them.
1. Explore the English Garden
The English Garden is one of the largest city parks in the world and is a great place for a stroll and a picnic. Here you can also find an artificial surf wave ( Eiswachelle - yes they are surfing in a park!), a Chinese Tower, Pagoda and many other attractions. Buy some local pastries or pretzels and have a picnic lunch and enjoy the scenery.
2.Visit the Residenz
The Residence (Residenz) was once the home of the Bavarian kings and is now a museum. The dimensions of the building alone are astonishing. The rooms and art collections span a period that begins with The Renaissance and extends via the early Baroque and Rococo epochs to Neoclassicism. They bear witness to the discriminating taste and the political ambition of the Wittelsbach dynasty. Much of The Residenz was destroyed during WWII, and from 1945 it has been gradually reconstructed. You can see the reconstructed parts to this day, which are templated rather than actual stone. Today, the Residenz Museum, the Treasury and the Cuvilliés Theatre, along with other cultural institutions, occupy what is one of the largest museum complexes in Bavaria, and is well worth a visit.
3. Shop at the Viktualienmarkt
This famous market is a great place to buy fresh produce, foodstuffs, and souvenirs. It is open every day except Sundays and is a great way to experience local culture. Visit at lunchtime and enjoy a local produce picnic in the grounds. In summer months it can get very crowded, with people enjoying local produce and beers picnic-style on the parkland-style grounds.
4. Visit Marienplatz
This is the main square in Old Town, in the heart of the city. Many of the major attractions are within a few minutes walk of here. The gates to the old city walls still exist and ‘frame’ the old city. You can easily see most of the major attractions using this as a starting base.
The must-see attractions include the Glockenspiel mechanical clock in the New Town Hall (Neues Rathaus) and the several spectacular churches all located in Altstadt.
The new Town Hall (Neues Rathaus) is probably one of the top attractions in Munich. The west facade has undergone many redesigns over the centuries, so is now a mix of styles. These days it houses the Toy Museum (a must-do if you have children or are just nostalgic!) and 'Tanzhaus' or ballroom - which today serves as a place for civic ceremonies. The ornate wooden ceiling, with it's large barrel vaulting by master carpenter Hans Wengler is worth the visit alone. Ironically, it is the one that looks like the oldest building in the central city. Built in the gothic style, the façade is elaborately decorated with gargoyles and statues. You can wander through the building and admire the magnificent (bearing in mind it is a working council building, so staff are at work), and also take an elevator 85m to the top of the Town Hall for a small fee. The views are spectacular and well worth it.
The Glockenspiel sounds at 11am, noon and 5pm so be sure to time your visit there to see the 12 minute show of motorised figures twirling around the inside of the tower. Some say it is corny РI say, this is an expression of art and technology from the past that you do not see these days and is definitely worth a look, in fact, to miss it, would be to miss the heart of Munich! The short show depicts several significant stories from the history of Munich. You can also watch the show enjoying a drink and meal at the famous Caf̩ Glockenspiel, which boasts spectacular views over Marienplatz. However it is very popular to do this, so reservations are advised.
During WWII, the Old Town House (Altes Rathaus) was so badly damaged, the rebuild meant that many original features are now missing, or in some cases, just replicated. Look closely at the building, and what looks like stonework is actually concrete with a 'brick look' stenciled on. You will see this on many buildings in Munich as they were repaired on a tight budget in time for the 1972 Summer Olympics.
5. The Churches
Munich has some incredible churches. Even if you have already traveled Europe prior to reaching Munich- these churches are worth a look and will be different from the many other famous churches you have seen in Italy and France.Our Dear Lady (Frauenkirche) is perhaps the most famous church, with its two very distinctive towers (Stasi and Blasi). Dating back to the 15th century, it took almost 20 years to build and is based on the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. It is significant because there is a rule in Munich that no building is to surpass the Frauenkirche in height. The southern tower is almost 100 m tall. Although heavily damaged during the war, it has been rebuilt with fewer embellishments than the original, however, these are being reinstated over time.
Like other churches, you can go to the top of the church for amazing views via the south tower, and the good news is, they have a lift! For a small fee, once up in the viewing tower, you will see several different views with panorama descriptions so you know what you are looking at.
Many of the other significant churches are located nearby making it easy to see others, and all are worth a visit. Many have towers for amazing views, however, it is worth noting that only the Frauenkirche has a lift.
Saint Michaels Church (Michaelskirche), is located in the pedestrian zone between Karlsplatz-Stachus and Marienplatz. Modeled on “il Gesu” in Rome, its cantilever barrel-vaulted ceiling is, at more than 20m, the world’s second-largest after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. It is the largest Renaissance church north of the Alps.
The distinctive white and pink exterior is adorned with statues of the Wittelsbach dynasty forming a family tree. It is also the burial place of Ludwig II, the Fairytale King, and other royalty of Bavaria. The interior is stunning so well worth a look.
The tower is 91 m (299 feet) high. You should note that the stairs are narrow and arduous, so if have limited mobility, it is not for you, and if you do you arrive at the top, the terrace is very narrow as well. However, if you can make it, you will be rewarded with amazing views.
6. Nymphenburg Palace
The Nymphenberg Palace (Schloss Nymphenburg) is amongst one of the largest Baroque palaces in Germany and the stunning surrounding parklands offer lots of activities including a porcelain museum, a carriage museum and the Man and Nature (Mensch und Natur) Museum. Buy some delicious treats from some of the surrounding stores (seriously some of the best patisseries are nearby) and have a picnic and enjoy the stunningly manicured grounds, complete with extensive lakes with swans and other birdlife. We went in winter and the lake was semi-frozen over, so it literally looked like the birds were ‘walking on water’.
Opening times and gondola rides at the Palace vary with the seasons so be sure to check first before going- however, the parklands are open year-round. You will find locals using it to walk their dogs and exercise around the grounds. To find out more about the unique experience of the gondolas go to the Gondolas of Nymphenburg website here.
7. The Deutsches Museum
The Deutsches Museum is the world’s largest Museum of Science and Technology and is a fascinating place to explore. There are 20 permanent exhibitions covering an area of 20,000 sqm. From Modern Aviation to Health, from Chemistry to Music. Follow the space race, marvel at cipher machines and admire the model railway, small robots and giant aeroplanes. Of course in German style - everything is very advanced and mind-blowing!!! Prices and tickets, directions and opening hours can be found on the Visit page. I recommend downloading the free Deutsches Museum App.
8. BMW World
BMW World (Welt) offers tours of their spectacular headquarters, plant and museum just out of Munich central. Here you can take a tour of the factory, view the cars on display, and even take a drive in a BMW. Of special interest is the Place of Remembrance, where BMW acknowledges the wrongs of the past with comprehensive information, original photographs, reports and historical documents that explain the role of BMW as an armaments factory and the associated use of forced labour.
This is best combined with a tour of the Olympic Park and they are located close together for time economy. Even if you are not a BMW fan, you have to admire their 100 years of engineering history and their several restaurants offer some nice selections for all budgets and tastes, including EssZimmer by Kafer - their 2 Michelin star restaurant!
9. The Olympic Park
The Olympic Park built for the 1972 Olympics is now a popular park for locals and tourists alike. You can take a cable car ride, visit the Olympic Tower, and explore the grounds. The “Incisions” (Einschnitt) memorial is a pavilion housing a multimedia display that commemorates the twelve victims of the 1972 Olympic massacre and outlines the contemporary historic background to the incident. Well worth a look..jpg)
10. Visit the Hofbräuhaus
The Hofbräuhaus is a popular beer hall in Munich and is a great place to enjoy some of the local beers. It also offers traditional Bavarian food such as sausages and pretzels. Don’t expect gourmet - just traditional food made the same way it has for hundreds of years. Having said that, it is definitely a fun atmosphere and it is definitely livelier at night that during the day (except during Oktoberfest when it is crazy all day!!). There are several other historic beer halls nearby that are equally historic and less touristy - some date back to the 12th and 13th centuries (my suggestion is to try the historic J.W. Augustiner Brau est.1328). If you are a beer aficionado - it is worth visiting those associated with their own breweries to try their craft brew lines. Tip: Don't try and ‘souvenir’ a bier stein from here or anywhere - if you want one- buy one from the gift shop- they host a range of souvenirs. The staff are very aware of the ’souvenir value’ of their bier steins and are watchful. They will not hesitate to ‘follow up’ with you if your bags or pockets are bulging!
Personally, I found the Hofbräuhaus too touristy, and there are plenty of other historic beer halls to visit in this city- but hey- why not visit them all and decide for yourself!
If you have more time available, then I suggest you visit my associated blog, When in Munich, add these amazing Bavarian destinations to your itinerary!
